Duck a l’Orange

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

Serves 2 to 4

Whole roasted duck with orange slice is a traditional favorite. Having instructed several hundred customers how to make a moist, juicy bird with this citrus sauce, master butcher Loic Jaffres shares his fool-proof method with you. Adjust the marmalade according to your own taste from sweet to bitter. To serve 4, carve the duck into slices or cut it into quarters. Serve it with long-grain or wild rice. A Gamay or Merlot goes will with this.

Ingredients

• 1 quart orange juice, preferably freshly squeezed
• 1 (12-ounce) jar bitter or sweet orange marmalade, or a combination of the two
• ½ cup honey
• 1 Duck, 5 to 6 pounds, giblets and excess fat removed and discarded, wing tips turned under
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 thin-skinned orange, washed and cut into thin slices
• ½ cup Cointreau or triple sec
• Cooked long-grain or wild rice (optional)
• 2 to 4 sprigs watercress, to garnish

Directions

1. Combine orange juice, marmalade, and honey in a bowl deep enough to hold duck. Add duck, over, and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight, turning duck once or twice if marinade doesn’t cover it.

2. Preheat oven to 375°F.

3. Remove duck from marinade, reserving marinade. Prick duck skin all over with a fork (do not pierce the flesh), and season inside and out with salt and pepper. Place breast side up on a rack in a roasting pan and transfer to oven. After 10 minutes, turn eat down to 350°F and roast for 1 ½ hours. (It may also be cooked on a rotisserie for 1 ½ hours in a 350°F oven).

4. Once duck has rendered some fat, spoon 2 tablespoons of it into a saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat, add onion, and sauté until tender and light brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Sprinkle on flour and cook for 1 minute to lightly color, stirring occasionally. Pour in reserved marinade and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring up any browned bits. Adjust heat to medium and reduce liquid until thickened, 20 to 25 minutes. Scrape sauce into an electric blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Pour through a strainer into a pan and set aside.

5. When duck has roasted for 1 ½ hours, remove pan from oven and turn heat down to 325°F. Discard all but a little fat from roasting pan, and lay orange slices over bottom of pan. Return to oven and cook until slices begin to brown about 10 minutes. Remove orange slices and duck from pan, and let stand for 10 minutes while finishing sauce.

6. On top of stove, pour Cointreau into roasting pan and carefully ignite, stirring up all browned particles. When flames subside, pour in reduced orange sauce and stir to blend. Keep warm.

7. To serve for 2: Cut duck in half using sharp scissors or poultry shears. Remove backbone by cutting along one side and then the other, then cut along breastbone. For 4: Cut each half into breast and leg sections.

8. Place each duck portion on a warm plate. Spoon a generous mound of rice next to it, lay orange slices around it, add watercress sprig, and ladle on sauce.

D’ARTAGNAN’S GLORIOUS GAME COOKBOOK
written by Ariane Daguin, George Faison, and Joanna Pruess
http://www.dartagnan.com/51259/a3040/Duck/Duck-a-lOrange.html

Lavender Honey-Glazed Roast Duck

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

Serves 6 wedges

A speedy hors d’oeuvre that can be tailored to your own tastes and invention. Between a pair of flour tortillas, you can let your creativity go wild. Spread a little ancho chili paste, honey mustard, or mole sauce. Sprinkle on cheeses like shredded Monterey Jack, Cheddar, Manchego, or blue. Then top with marinated artichoke hearts or roasted peppers. Surely you can think of many other variations. Serve with icy beer or margaritas.

Ingredients

• 1 female Muscovy duck, about 3 ½ pounds, giblets, excess fat, and 2 wing joints removed, skin pricked, patted dry
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• ½ cup nicoise (oil-cured black) olives
• 4 tablespoons lavender honey
• 2 tablespoons dried lavender
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

2. Season duck inside and out with salt and pepper. Put olives and lavender inside duck and truss or close with a skewer. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add duck and sauté on all sides until skin is golden brown. Transfer to a rack in a roasting pan.

3. Mix 2 tablespoons of the honey with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Brush over duck and roast until juices run clear when duck is pricked deep in thigh, about 45 minutes. Above halfway through the roasting time, combine 1 tablespoon of pan drippings with the remaining 2 tablespoons of honey, and brush over duck.

4. When duck is cooked, remove it from oven and let rest for 15 minutes in a warm place before carving and serving.

D’ARTAGNAN’S GLORIOUS GAME COOKBOOK
written by Ariane Daguin, George Faison, and Joanna Pruess.
http://www.dartagnan.com/51259/a3090/Duck/Lavender-Honey–Glazed-Roast-Duck.html

Molasses-Roasted Muscovy Duck Breast with Cornbread-Venison Sausage Dressing

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 1/3 cup each buttermilk and mayonnaise
• ½ teaspoon lemon juice
• ½ teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon molasses plus 1 tablespoon, to garnish
• ¼ teaspoon each Tabasco and salt
• Cornbread-Venison Sausage Dressing (recipe follows)
• 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus a little olive oil to sauté ducks
• 1 teaspoon each lime juice and chili powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 2 whole boneless Muscovy Hen Breasts, about 2 pounds, excess fat removed, skin and fat scored diagonally into small squares
• 4 watercress sprigs, to garnish
• Pecan halves, lightly toasted, to garnish

Directions

1. Combine buttermilk, mayonnaise, lemon juice, the ½ teaspoon of molasses, Tabasco, and ¼ teaspoon salt together in a small bowl. Stir to blend, cover, and refrigerate until needed. Sauce may be prepared a day ahead. Prepare Cornbread-Venison Sausage Dressing.

2. Combine 1 tablespoon molasses, 1 tablespoon olive oil, lime juice, chili powder, and ½ teaspoon salt together in a small bowl and mix well. Brush duck breasts with mixture.

3. Heat remaining olive oil in a large oven-proof skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add breasts, skin side down, adjust heat to medium low, and slowly sauté skin to render as much fat as possible and to brown the skin well, 5 to 10 minutes. When skin is browned, turn breasts over, raise heat to medium high, and sear flesh side for about 1 minute.

4. Set skillet aside in a warm spot, and allow breasts to rest for 5 minutes, for juices to settle.

5. Divide the whole breasts into individual breast halves, and then cut each half crosswise into thin slices. Spoon a tight mound of Cornbread-Venison Sausage Dressing into the center of each of 4 dinner plates. Shingle duck slices over dressing. Finely drizzle the plates with the remaining tablespoon molasses and the reserved buttermilk dressing. Garnish with watercress sprigs and toasted pecans, and serve.

Ingredients for Cornbread-Venison Sausage Dressing

• 12 tablespoons (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter, plus butter to grease pan
• 1 cup each all-purpose flour and yellow cornmeal
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1 ½ teaspoons each baking powder and salt
• 1 egg
• 1 cup milk
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• ½ pound venison or pork sausage, casing removed, broken into small pieces
• 2 serrano chilies, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
• 1 poblano chili, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
• 1 rib celery, chopped
• ½ medium carrot, chopped
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions Cornbread-Venison Sausage Dressing

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease an 8×8-inch square baking pan.

2. Melt 8 tablespoons (1 stick) of the butter and set aside. Sift flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt together into large bowl .lightly beat egg wit milk in another bowl. Add egg mixture and melted butter to dry ingredients, and mix until just combined. Do not over mix. Scrape into prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of cornbread comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven, set pan on a rack, and cool to room temperature. Cornbread may be prepared several days ahead of time. Cover and store in a cool spot.

3. Melt 3 tablespoons of the remaining butter in a skillet, over medium heat. Add onion and sausage, and sauté until onions are translucent, 5 minutes. Add both kinds of chilies, the celery, and carrot, and sauté until tender, 5 to 6 minutes.

4. Break cornbread into small pieces and add to skillet with vegetables, stirring to blend ingredients. Add oregano, salt, pepper, and remaining tablespoon of butter, and stir again. Transfer to a serving dish and keep warm.

D’ARTAGNAN’S GLORIOUS GAME COOKBOOK
written by Ariane Daguin, George Faison, and Joanna Pruess
http://www.dartagnan.com/51259/a3044/Duck/Molasses–Roasted-Muscovy-Duck-Breast-with-Cornbread–Venison-Sausage-Dressing.html

Roasted Holiday Goose Breast and Braised Legs with Cassis Sauce

Thursday, December 3rd, 2009

Serves 8

Ingredients

• 1 goose, 10 to 12 pounds, excess fat removed
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 tablespoon each crushed juniper berries and grated fresh gingerroot
• 1 orange, zest removed in thin strips, fruit peeled and diced
• 1 rib celery, diced
• 1 onion, quartered
• 1 leek, white part only, split lengthwise
• 4 cups diced mirepoix: mixed carrots, onions, celery and leeks
• 1 bouquet garni: 4 bay leaves, 2 tablespoons dried thyme, 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, and 4 whole cloves, tied in cheesecloth
• 1 quart poaching liquid reserved from legs, or chicken stock
• 1 cup cassis (black currant liqueur)
• 2 shallots, minced
• ½ cup dried red currants
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

Directions

1. One day before serving, remove legs from goose at thigh joint, leaving breast on carcass. Rub breast and carcass inside and out with salt, pepper, juniper berries, ginger, and orange zest. Place deiced orange, celery, onion, and leek inside cavity. Prick skin all over, place carcass on a rack, and refrigerate uncovered for 24 hours.

2. While breast is marinating, place legs in a casserole with mirepoix and bouquet garni. Add enough water to cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat so liquid just simmers, cover pot, and cook until legs are tender and meat easily pulls away from the bones, at least 2 hours. Remove from heat and let cool. When legs are cool enough to handle, remove skin and bones, and discard. Skim fat from top of poaching liquid; strain liquid and reserve. Shred leg meat and reserve. Legs may be cooked 1 day ahead, covered, and refrigerated.

3. Remove breast from refrigerator and allow to stand for 30 minutes at room temperature. Preheat oven to 475°F.

4. Place goose, breast side up, on a rack in a large roasting pan, and roast for 30 minutes. Turn heat down to 400°F, and continue roasting until skin is golden brown and juices run pale pink when meat is pricked deep in breast, about 35 minutes longer, basting periodically with pan juices. Remove from oven and transfer to a platter. Tent with aluminum foil and let rest.

5. Discard fat from roasting pan and empty contents of carcass and any juices into pan. Pour in 1 quart of the reserved poaching liquid, the cassis, shallots, and currants, and deglaze pan, stirring up all browned particles. Pour into a saucepan and bring sauce to a boil over high heat. Cook until reduced by two-thirds. Strain sauce, season with salt and pepper, and stir in butter. Keep warm.

6. Warm leg meat, and moisten with a little cassis sauce. Place a large spoonful of leg meat in the center of each warmed dinner plate. Remove breast from goose carcass and carve across grain into long angular slices. Drape 3 to 4 slices over leg meat, spoon sauce over, and serve.

D’ARTAGNAN’S GLORIOUS GAME COOKBOOK
written by Ariane Daguin, George Faison, and Joanna Pruess
http://www.dartagnan.com/51267/a3158/Turkey–Goose/Roasted-Holiday-Goose-Breast-and-Braised-Legs-with-Cassis-Sauce.html

Gala Goose

Thursday, December 3rd, 2009

Serves at least 6

Ingredients

• One 9 to 11 lb goose
• 3 tablespoons rendered goose fat
• 1½ cups each coarsely chopped carrots, onions, and celery
• 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 2 cups dry white wine
• 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
• Peelings from 1 green apple (optional)
• 6 cloves
• 1 large bay leaf
• 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, soaked, cleaned, and coarsely chopped, liquid strained and reserved
• ½ cup dried cherries
• 2 tablespoons Armagnac
• 1 tablespoon red currant jelly
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions

1. Remove giblets and neck from cavity, pull off any loose fat, and cut off first 2 wing joints, if still attached, and reserve. Wash goose, tie legs together, pick bird all over, and set aside.

2. Put goose fat in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, and render about 3 tablespoons of fat. Remove and discard remaining fat (or use later). Add giblets, wing pieces, neck, and vegetables to pan. Sauté until vegetables are browned, about 7 to 8 minutes, turning frequently. Sprinkle on flour, adjust heat to medium, and continue cooking until flour is lightly browned, 6 to 7 minutes, stirring often.

3. Pour chicken stock and white wine into a covered roasting dish large enough to hold the goose, and bring to a boil. Add goose, breast side down, pieces of browned goose, and vegetables, parsley, apple peelings, cloves, and bay leaf. Pour in enough water to cover goose by about two-thirds, and bring to a simmer. Whisk a cup of this liquid into the sauté pan, then scrape the thickened liquid back into the roasting pan. Cover pan and cook very gently, regulating heat, if necessary, to keep it just simmering.

4. After an hour, turn goose over, being careful not to break the skin. (A pair of rubber gloves is an easy way to do this.) Poach goose a total of 2 to 3 hours, or until meat is tender when pierced with a fork. Turn off heat and finish immediately, later in the day, or the next day.

5. Recipe may be done ahead to this point.

6. To finish immediately, preheat oven to 450° F.

7. Remove goose from liquid, drain, and place on a rack in a shallow roasting pan. Roast until skin is brown and crispy, about 30 minutes. Take out of oven, and allow to stand for about 5 to 20 minutes.

8. Meanwhile, skim grease from pan liquid and strain to remove pieces of goose, vegetables, and seasonings. Discard pieces of goose and seasonings. Purée vegetables in a blender or food processor, and add back to pan. Boil quickly to reduce liquid by about half.

9. Add porcini and soaking liquid, cherries, Armagnac, and red currant jelly. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and keep warm until needed.

To finish later or the next day, cover pan and set in refrigerator. When ready, remove layer of fat from liquid. Lift out goose and bring liquid to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to a simmer, then reheat goose in stock for about 10 minutes while preheating oven. Proceed with recipe as above.

D’ARTAGNAN’S GLORIOUS GAME COOKBOOK
written by Ariane Daguin, George Faison, and Joanna Pruess.
http://www.dartagnan.com/51267/a3057/Turkey–Goose/Gala-Goose.html

Risotto of Goose Giblets

Thursday, December 3rd, 2009

Serves 6 as a main course

When slowly simmered, goose giblets impart an extremely mild, even delicate taste to this risotto-like dish. It’s very simple, sine the hot liquid is added all at once, rather than by half cupfuls, and there is no constant stirring involved. The result is a dish that is rich but not overwhelming, filling but not leaden. Serve with a crisp green salad, and either red or white wine, according to your own preference.

Ingredients

• Gizzard, heat, and neck from 1 goose, washed
• 1 large leek, including an inch of green, cleaned
• 2 carrots
• 6 cups cold water
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 6 black peppercorns
• 7 tablespoons rendered goose or duck fat
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 2 cups Arborio rice
• ½ pound white mushrooms, wiped clean, trimmed and sliced
• ¾ cup frozen petite peas, defrosted
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Chopped flat-leaf parsley, to garnish

Directions

1. Combine gizzard, heat, neck, leek, carrots, and cold water in a saucepan. Add 1 teaspoon salt and peppercorns, and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn heat down and simmer, partially covered, until meats are tender, about 1 hour. Keep piping hot.

2. Heat 5 tablespoons of the goose fat in a heavy medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and gently sauté until translucent. Stir in rice, turning to coat all kernels, and cook until they turn opaque and begin to swell. Pour all but ¼ cup of the hot stock through a strainer into rice, stir once, cover pan tightly, and simmer until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, about 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons goose fat in a skillet over medium high heat. Stir in mushrooms and sauté until just limp. Chop gizzard and heat into small pieces, and remove meat from neck. Keep meats warm in a little of the stock.

4. Stir peas, giblets, and mushrooms into risotto. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with parsley, and serve at once.

D’ARTAGNAN’S GLORIOUS GAME COOKBOOK
written by Ariane Daguin, George Faison, and Joanna Pruess.
http://www.dartagnan.com/51267/a3141/Turkey–Goose/Risotto-of-Goose-Giblets.html